Indian Jewelry of the Southwest

Robert Zachary, owner of the famous Turquoise Museum in Albuquerque, gives a good brief introduction in this theme:

"Indian Jewelry is a term that brings to mind the silver and turquoise jewelry of the Navajo and Pueblo Indians of the American Southwest. Crafts people from the Navajo, Zuni, Hopi and Santo Domingo tribes have gained a world-wide reputation for their unique jewelry. In addition to the pieces fashioned by these people, many fine examples of jewelry are also created by members of other Indian tribes.

Southwestern Indians have worn jewelry made from pieces of shell, turquoise and other materials for centuries. The jewelry we think of as "Indian" began evolve about 100 years ago. The Navajo were the first to produce jewelry that required the working metal. Their love of metal working can be traced to the Spanish arrival in the Southwest. The silver bridles and horse trappings of the conquistadores were admired and often stolen by the raiding Navajos.

Later, when the area became part of Mexico, Mexican silversmiths traded jewelry to wealthy Navajo for sheep. Jewelry became a symbol of wealth. Around 1850, a Navajo Medicine Man, Atsidi Sani, convinced a Mexican blacksmith to teach him the art of working iron. Most scholars agree he was the first Navajo to work with metal and some evidence exists to show that he later became the first Navajo to make silver jewelry. After the Mexican War in 1848, the Southwest became part of the United States.

The government, acting to end raids by the Indians, appointed Kit Carson to subdue the rebellious Navajo. After a campaign aimed at destroying the Navajo herds and crops, the starving Indians surrendered. In 1864, some 8500 survivors began the "Long Walk" to imprisonment at Fort Sumner, New Mexico. Many did not survive the torturous journey. There was a blacksmith shop at Fort Sumner and many Navajos learned the trade.

This is where the first crude Indian jewelry, made from copper and brass was fashioned. A peace treaty was signed and the Navajo returned to their homeland in1868. Traders arrived in the area, bringing with them silver coins. It was with these coins that the Navajo began to make silver jewelry. A few traders realized the potential for Navajo jewelry including "Don Lorenzo" Hubbell. In 1884 two Mexican silversmiths were employed by the Hubbell Trading Post (now a National Monument) to teach Navajos how to solder and work with silver. Between 1884 and 1889, turquoise stones began to appear set in the jewelry. This was a natural development due to the Indians long time love for the stone."